On the Grand Portage reservation, on the tip of Minnesota’s Arrowhead, Travis Novitsky likes to stroll to a spot the place a gnarled, centuries-old tree grows seemingly straight out of the rock, perched on the Lake Superior shoreline.
It’s often called Manido Gizhigans, “which is Ojibwe for ‘Little spirit cedar tree,’” defined Novitksy.
It’s additionally referred to as the Witch Tree. It’s a sacred place, the place guests have to be accompanied by a Grand Portage band member.

An in depth-up of Travis Novitsky as he frames {a photograph} of the Little Spirit Cedar tree. Novitsky says it is new to see extra folks within the craft however he’s glad to indicate the way in which.
Ben Hovland | MPR Information
“It is an excellent spot simply to sit down and absorb what is going on on round you,” Novitsky mentioned, and considered one of his favourite locations to pursue his ardour — photographing the night time sky.
It is solely about 7 p.m., however it’s already intensely darkish as Novitsky units up his tripod and digicam. Each few moments 1 / 4 moon and a blanket of stars emerge from behind fleeting clouds.
“Sitting on the shoreline of a lake, seeing the celebrities mirrored within the water, is an expertise in contrast to anything,” mentioned Novitsky.
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“All through day-to-day life, which may be fairly hectic generally, it may be onerous to sort of quiet your thoughts,” he mentioned. “And popping out to those locations, whether or not I am taking pictures or not, is simply that means for me to sort of decelerate, take a breath, simply be in that second and admire it. You realize, simply you and the sky, you and the celebrities.”
And more and more, extra persons are venturing to the North Shore to share in that have, at a time when darkish skies elsewhere in Minnesota and across the nation are diminishing.

Panorama photographer Travis Novitsky hikes by way of contemporary snow on his technique to {photograph} the North Shore of Lake Superior.
Ben Hovland | MPR Information
Tourism officers in Cook dinner County are attempting to reap the benefits of that elevated curiosity from so-called “astrotourists.” About 5 years in the past they revealed a web based map of excellent locations for guests to view the Northern Lights, together with nighttime images ideas.
They usually launched the Darkish Sky Competition — held close to the darkest time of yr — after the busy summer season tourism season, however earlier than winter actions are in full swing.
This yr it consists of shows by a NASA official, different talks, night time sky walks and telescope viewings. There are additionally screenings of a brand new documentary co-produced by Novitsky referred to as “Northern Lights, Starry Skies.”

Go to Cook dinner County advertising and public relations director Kjersti Vick chats with MPR Information reporter Dan Kraker throughout an interview in Grand Marais, Minn. on Nov. 30. She mentioned that the time of the yr that’s the darkest actually is a deal with for night time sky watchers.
Ben Hovland | MPR Information
“It’s a celebration of that darkish interval of yr, when you’ve prolonged hours of wanting on the night time sky,” mentioned Kjersti Vick with Go to Cook dinner County.
Vick first realized the large attraction of the area’s darkish skies when she was sitting round a campfire just a few years in the past with some out-of-town mates, after they all of a sudden grew very quiet.
“They had been all simply staring on the sky,” Vick recalled. “They usually’re like, ‘are there at all times this many stars within the sky?’ And it was sort of eye opening for me, for someone who grew up on this space and at all times noticed this many stars within the sky, that not everyone will get to expertise this.”
Gentle air pollution
Scientists estimate 99 p.c of the continental U.S. and Europe now experiences some sort of gentle air pollution. Practically 80 p.c of North People cannot see the Milky Manner the place they dwell.
And it’s getting worse, mentioned Caroline Torkildson, a darkish skies advocate in Cook dinner County and board member of Starry Skies North, a statewide chapter of the Worldwide Darkish Skies Affiliation.
“So these darkish locations are an increasing number of particular. And once I exit, and I have a look at the darkish skies, I simply have this sense of marvel, that we do not need to lose this,” she mentioned.
That makes locations like northeastern Minnesota an more and more interesting vacation spot for darkish sky vacationers, particularly within the winter, when darkish descends early, and the dry air creates clear circumstances for star gazing.
“There’s nothing like a 10-below night time with the Milky Manner up above you, and simply sitting there soaking in every part you’ll be able to see when your eyes are completely adjusted. It is fairly phenomenal,” mentioned John Fredrikson, co-owner of Gunflint Lodge and Outfitters, which gives shows on the Northern Lights and guided nighttime hikes for visitors.
He mentioned curiosity has grown for the reason that Boundary Waters Canoe Space was not too long ago designated an Worldwide Darkish Sky Sanctuary — considered one of solely 16 on the planet.

The Spirit Tree, often called “Manido Gizhigans” in Ojibwe, is seen on Lake Superior’s North Shore on the Grand Portage Indian Reservation on Wednesday on Nov. 30.
Ben Hovland | MPR Information
Close by, Voyageurs Nationwide Park and Quetico Provincial Park have additionally been acknowledged by the Worldwide Darkish Skies Affiliation for his or her protected darkish areas.
Collectively, they make up one of many darkest areas within the decrease 48 states east of the Mississippi River, and a hotspot for “Aurora hunters” in the hunt for the Northern Lights.
“It’s one thing that persons are perpetually chasing,” mentioned Go to Cook dinner County’s Vick, who in contrast seeing the Northern Lights to recognizing a moose. You realize they’re on the market, however generally they are often onerous to identify.
“However if you see it for the primary time, it is like, ‘oh my gosh, this simply occurred in entrance of my eyes.’ It is unbelievable. And so it’s one thing that’s on bucket lists for a very good motive. It’s magical and superb.”
Darkish sky tourism additionally obtained a lift throughout the pandemic, when folks sought out holidays outside, mentioned Valerie Stimac Bailey, writer of “Darkish Skies: A Sensible Information to Astrotourism.”
“Astrotourism truly benefited as a result of there is no such thing as a higher exercise for getting out and getting away from folks than stargazing,” she mentioned. “And so there was a ton of elevated curiosity find stargazing spots and going to nationwide parks for night time sky actions.”
Extra pictures, extra vacationers
Photographer Travis Novitsky sees that elevated curiosity firsthand alongside the North Shore. There are nights he’ll pull as much as a favourite spot that he used to have all to himself. Now, there could be one other half dozen vehicles there.

Panorama photographer Travis Novitsky describes considered one of his favourite pictures of the aurora borealis hanging in his house on the Grand Portage Indian Reservation in northern Minnesota on on Nov. 30.
Ben Hovland | MPR Information
And he struggles with that. He is aware of a few of these persons are most likely there due to him, and all the images he is taken through the years of the night time sky, and the Northern Lights.
“The extra people who come to expertise that makes it more durable to proceed to get the identical experiences that I am used to, and why I find it irresistible.”
However he’s an astrotourist himself, he acknowledges. He travels repeatedly to the American southwest, a hotspot for darkish skies devotees.
He mentioned whereas it will probably generally be irritating to lose that solitude, he mentioned it’s additionally rewarding to share these areas with different folks.
“As a result of I do know that these people are there as a result of they need to expertise a chunk of what I expertise. That amazement, that marvel and that appreciation.”

The Grand Marais Lighthouse is seen at sundown on Nov. 30.
Ben Hovland | MPR Information
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