Gucci hits runway as trend world awaits new designer

Gucci kicked off Milan Vogue Week on Friday with a lineup of slouchy, androgynous menswear kinds, forging forward with its newest assortment whereas the business waits for proprietor Kering to call a brand new designer for the label.

The query of who will steer Gucci’s artistic route loomed over the megabrand’s first males’s present within the Italian trend capital in three years. Occasions run via January 17, drawing an viewers that features main retail consumers sizing up which kinds could be future prime sellers.

A mannequin strolling the Gucci present. Credit score: Alessandro Garofalo/Reuters

There have been echoes of Michele’s eccentric, gender-fluid kinds at Gucci’s catwalk presentation on Friday.

Fashions circled a darkened room to the growling music of dwell band Marc Ribot’s Ceramic Canine, parading oversize swimsuit coats with broad lapels and ample, pleated trousers in pale beige and pastel tones, with new renditions of home classics, together with reminders of Michele’s tenure, together with furry, horse-bit embellished slippers.

“A palette cleanser from the collections we’ve seen throughout the previous few seasons,” mentioned Simon Longland, head of menswear and womenswear at London division retailer Harrods.

He mentioned the present supplied a “new method” to deal with kinds, with a spread of materials and jacket shapes that might probably attraction to followers of its signature seems in addition to new prospects.

Present notes, which consumers scrutinize for indicators of the label’s subsequent steps, referred to improvisation and collaboration.

“When the free impulses of particular person minds interweave, collective expressions are conceived,” the model’s notes mentioned.

Fashions circled a darkened room to dwell music. Credit score: Alessandro Garofalo/Reuters

Shimmery silver pants and quilted motorbike boots added touches of flamboyancy to the neutral-colored seems, which had been taken in by celebrities within the viewers together with Okay-pop star Kai, American soccer participant Jalen Ramsey and Italian rock band Maneskin.

UBS expects Kering’s February 15 earnings launch will present the label’s fourth quarter gross sales declined by round 11%, probably one of many extra pronounced slowdowns among the many world’s prime trend labels, as strict Covid-19 restrictions weighed on enterprise in China.

“The longer the look forward to a brand new Gucci artistic director, the more serious the outlook for Kering,” mentioned Luca Solca, analyst with Bernstein, noting that “extra of the identical” wouldn’t assist the label regain its relevance with buyers.

Timeless fashions, advertising and marketing funding

Analysts at HSBC, in the meantime, mentioned efforts taken earlier than Michele’s departure may ease the transition, predicting enchancment this 12 months no matter who takes up artistic route.

They pointed to a current emphasis on timeless fashions and higher-priced merchandise in addition to a ramp-up of selling spend and a rise within the variety of collections as probably serving to speed up enterprise.

Gucci held again on advertising and marketing investments through the pandemic, whereas bigger rival LVMH’s two greatest labels Louis Vuitton and Dior pushed forward, a transfer that analysts say helped them achieve floor on rivals.

One other look from the Gucci Fall-Winter menswear present in Milan, Italy on January 13, 2023. Credit score: Alessandro Garofalo/Reuters

Regardless of the present turbulence at Kering, nonetheless, expectations are excessive given the group’s sturdy monitor report nurturing manufacturers, analysts say.

The group’s manufacturers are identified for “capturing the Zeitgeist” famous Solca, who mentioned Gucci’s previous success was “probably the most spectacular turnaround story in luxurious historical past.”

The business can be anticipating large modifications at different blockbuster labels.

High administration modifications at Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior introduced this week prompted speak {that a} design group reshuffle may comply with, together with at Louis Vuitton’s menswear division, which has leaned on design studio group because the loss of life of artistic director Virgil Abloh in late 2021.