Heidi Bivens, the costume designer for the HBO sequence Euphoria, has all the time had an innate consciousness of how garments establish us. “I understood early on how making choices about what you placed on was speaking one thing to the world,” says Bivens in Euphoria Style, a brand new e book revealed by A24 that catalogs the making of the present’s appears. “I understood the facility of navigating completely different teams of individuals by selecting whether or not or to not stand out or not.”
This understanding is evident to even essentially the most informal viewer of her work. A glimpse on the display on a Sunday evening reveals the masculine apathy of Nate’s tee-shirts and denims, the infant pinks and blues of Cassie, a woman spilling into womanhood, the safety blanket position of Rue’s burgundy hoodie.
The e book, just like the sequence, is intricate and exquisitely designed. The material-bound quantity is full of Nick Knight-inspired flat lays of iconic costumes like Maddy’s I.AM.GIA set, conversations with the solid and creator Sam Levinson, and a ahead by Jeremy Scott. “I had spoken with the e book’s editor, LinYee Yuan, early on about wanting the e book to really feel in-depth and complete concerning the craft of costume design,” Bivens tells me. “I informed them, ‘Please simply put as many pictures and behind-the-scenes pictures that individuals haven’t seen but within the e book.’ However I additionally wished it to be balanced with a tutorial method and to have actual style journalists who’re within the historical past and the social context, present and previous, of clothes.”
An essay titled Sure: Normcore as Style Bondage by William Van Meter explores the pointedly common clothes of the present’s poisonous male protagonists, Nate and his father, Cal. “They’re wolves in sheep’s clothes,” asserts Van Meter. “And honey, these sheep are kinky, conflicted, and norm to the core.” In one other essay, Memes, Moods, and Miu Miu Eras, Biz Sherbert examines the web’s preoccupation with the costumes’ lack of vérité, the concept that no “actual” teenager would put on Jacquemus or a leather-based harness to highschool: “Score the general success of a glance on its site-specific wearability feels outdated when a glance right now is most profitable when it may be described merely as a ‘temper,’” Sherbert posits. “A temper is by definition incorporeal, which means you’ll be able to channel Cassie’s full-blown faculty toilet breakdown in a cornflower nation music star costume, once you’re actually simply feeling just a little unhinged and carrying a contact of blue eyeshadow.”
“I made a decision to forgo actuality for visible impression,” declares Bivens. Between the essays and character research are “Odes,” brief items on the historical past of the tennis skirt, Converse Chuck Taylors, and matching units—important items within the present’s wardrobe.
Equal components thought-provoking and visually decadent, the e book is an apparent should for followers of Euphoria. Nonetheless, all design-lovers and anybody who enjoys watching, rewatching, dissecting, after which analyzing what makes one thing nice will delight in it as nicely.